[llllllllIllIl]

Fucking taking the L, I'd be furious if a huge company like Microsoft was stealing my money like this.

You still have other avenues to go down. Have you tried leaving them scathing reviews on trustpilot? Posting publicly on their social media? Emailing senior members of Microsoft staff directly? When you were on the phone, did you try going Karen mode and ask to speak to a manager?

You paid for an item to be delivered to you, and Microsoft have not fulfilled their side of the contract because they chose to employ a shit courier. They are disregarding your consumer rights and you need to fight those bastards.

[Roadman]

You need to file a chargeback. As the item is only $60 it won't be a "waste of a chargeback" due to the low amount, I promise you. Only chargebacks several hundred dollars and above are scrutinised.

If anything, buy several thousand $ worth of stuff and chargeback that to teach them a lesson.

[NuPhy1]

Thanks, I did not think you could even talk about chargebacks publicly like reddit.
Microsoft opened an investigation, I called over the phone, got an Indian call center, they gave me "you need to call back in 2 weeks when we finish the investigation" twice because they said they had no idea what I was talking about after the first 2 week wait, then they told me the package was delivered according to tracking and they are not legally liable.

I've done several DNA SE's without an issue, but they seem to want to go hard on this legit issue.
Item was a special edition Xbox Controller, less than $100.

I see.

What does the tracking history show? If it was delivered via UPS or Fedex, it'll most likely have a picture and by viewing it you'll be able to tell if it had been delivered to your address or somewhere else. If it was via USPS, it might be a tad tougher but they're pretty good at tracing packages and if was misdelivered or never got to you, they should've found out after the investigation.

Unless you literally can't survive without the $100, I'd honestly just take the loss and save the chargeback for something big. Chargebacks are really powerful and you can typically only use them a few times a year with any given bank, so you should be saving them to be used on large, $3k-15k orders, otherwise you'd basically be wasting them.

I'd keep pushing hard or simply take the loss and refund something easy and fast to sell in order to get back the capital you lost. Just my 2c. Don't waste a chargeback on $100.

This would be the correct take. When I use my CBs, it's usually for over 750+, and under 2k. The rationale is that the $ value should be worth it enough, and also not raise too much suspicion (who regularly spends more than 2k/purchase?). You could probably do larger amounts, but this is where I'm comfortable. I generally do about 3/4 CBs a year, 1 per card. I spend far more than the CBs are worth, so the CC company has always sided with me as it's always different things. I rotate credit cards as well, so they could link them back if they really cared, but for less than 2k, no bank gives a shit.

This makes a lot of sense. If you don't mind sharing, What are some reasons you could use, and how long do those CBs last until you got money back?

[anonymouslyderanged]

I see.

What does the tracking history show? If it was delivered via UPS or Fedex, it'll most likely have a picture and by viewing it you'll be able to tell if it had been delivered to your address or somewhere else. If it was via USPS, it might be a tad tougher but they're pretty good at tracing packages and if was misdelivered or never got to you, they should've found out after the investigation.

Unless you literally can't survive without the $100, I'd honestly just take the loss and save the chargeback for something big. Chargebacks are really powerful and you can typically only use them a few times a year with any given bank, so you should be saving them to be used on large, $3k-15k orders, otherwise you'd basically be wasting them.

I'd keep pushing hard or simply take the loss and refund something easy and fast to sell in order to get back the capital you lost. Just my 2c. Don't waste a chargeback on $100.

This would be the correct take. When I use my CBs, it's usually for over 750+, and under 2k. The rationale is that the $ value should be worth it enough, and also not raise too much suspicion (who regularly spends more than 2k/purchase?). You could probably do larger amounts, but this is where I'm comfortable. I generally do about 3/4 CBs a year, 1 per card. I spend far more than the CBs are worth, so the CC company has always sided with me as it's always different things. I rotate credit cards as well, so they could link them back if they really cared, but for less than 2k, no bank gives a shit.

This makes a lot of sense. If you don't mind sharing, What are some reasons you could use, and how long do those CBs last until you got money back?

Just say that it didn't arrive, or it was empty, provide lots of photos and make sure you've actually been denied by the company they're going to check and see if you had any comms with them. Outside of that, they usually can last up to 90 days, so it's a last resort. Generally they side with you if you're a customer that spends more than the average monthly CB.

[NuPhy1]

This would be the correct take. When I use my CBs, it's usually for over 750+, and under 2k. The rationale is that the $ value should be worth it enough, and also not raise too much suspicion (who regularly spends more than 2k/purchase?). You could probably do larger amounts, but this is where I'm comfortable. I generally do about 3/4 CBs a year, 1 per card. I spend far more than the CBs are worth, so the CC company has always sided with me as it's always different things. I rotate credit cards as well, so they could link them back if they really cared, but for less than 2k, no bank gives a shit.

This makes a lot of sense. If you don't mind sharing, What are some reasons you could use, and how long do those CBs last until you got money back?

Just say that it didn't arrive, or it was empty, provide lots of photos and make sure you've actually been denied by the company they're going to check and see if you had any comms with them. Outside of that, they usually can last up to 90 days, so it's a last resort. Generally they side with you if you're a customer that spends more than the average monthly CB.

TY. Appreciate your input.