RE: RTX 5090 SE? - Broskie333 - 01-07-2025
(01-05-2025, 09:46 PM)Jojo1980 Wrote: Just to add to this (specifically for UK residents) DO NOT raise a chargeback unless it's watertight.
I had my fingers burnt in the past, and the merchant provided evidence that I was being fraudulent with the chargeback attempt, and I ended up with a CIFAS marker for misuses of facility.
Thankfully, it only lasted for 12 months, and I was in a safe job, and it dropped off so took the L and didn't try and contest it.
But, it taught me valuable lesson in being careless with chargebacks with your bank/Credit Card.
Now, I just take the L and return the item if all DNA/EB/MEB options have been exhausted.
That doesn't just happen with 1 chargeback, if you keep doing it over and over that's when it gets sus and they will refer your account to a specialised team
I had a similar issue but thankfully they are not a "real" uk bank(you probably know by this already which bank it is) so they don't load cifas markers lol
RE: RTX 5090 SE? - Woo - 01-07-2025
(01-06-2025, 06:53 AM)HeadxHunter Wrote: (01-05-2025, 09:46 PM)Jojo1980 Wrote: Just to add to this (specifically for UK residents) DO NOT raise a chargeback unless it's watertight.
I had my fingers burnt in the past, and the merchant provided evidence that I was being fraudulent with the chargeback attempt, and I ended up with a CIFAS marker for misuses of facility.
Thankfully, it only lasted for 12 months, and I was in a safe job, and it dropped off so took the L and didn't try and contest it.
But, it taught me valuable lesson in being careless with chargebacks with your bank/Credit Card.
Now, I just take the L and return the item if all DNA/EB/MEB options have been exhausted.
This is why DNA is power
(01-07-2025, 08:07 PM)Broskie333 Wrote: (01-05-2025, 09:46 PM)Jojo1980 Wrote: Just to add to this (specifically for UK residents) DO NOT raise a chargeback unless it's watertight.
I had my fingers burnt in the past, and the merchant provided evidence that I was being fraudulent with the chargeback attempt, and I ended up with a CIFAS marker for misuses of facility.
Thankfully, it only lasted for 12 months, and I was in a safe job, and it dropped off so took the L and didn't try and contest it.
But, it taught me valuable lesson in being careless with chargebacks with your bank/Credit Card.
Now, I just take the L and return the item if all DNA/EB/MEB options have been exhausted.
That doesn't just happen with 1 chargeback, if you keep doing it over and over that's when it gets sus and they will refer your account to a specialised team
I had a similar issue but thankfully they are not a "real" uk bank(you probably know by this already which bank it is) so they don't load cifas markers lol
I might be wrong, but he said the merchant provided proof for fraudulent activities, not neccessarily the bank themselves, and the bank decided to agree with the merchant.
I did some extra reading about the best way to CB an order and found that reporting the charge as fraudulent works the best. However, my only concern would be the merchant following up and maybe even contacting the police about it.
For example, let's say the delivery address goes to a drophouse. What if the merchant provides delivery details for where the fraud occurred, especially for insurance purposes? Think about it, if that's where the item was sent. that's where the supposed fraudster is too, or at least has access to. Particularly for the value of this item, it's something I could actually imagine the police (lightly) following up with.
The only alternative I can think of is sending the item to a post office (risk of ID check) or to one of those postal boxes you find near cornershops and petrol stations and then reporting as fraudulent charge. The most they'd be able to find is the CCTV footage of you approaching and taking the item from the collection box.
My apologies if I sound overly cautious; I believe it's better to be safe than sorry.
Thank you for reading my fictional story!
RE: RTX 5090 SE? - Broskie333 - 01-07-2025
(01-07-2025, 09:18 PM)Woo Wrote: (01-06-2025, 06:53 AM)HeadxHunter Wrote: (01-05-2025, 09:46 PM)Jojo1980 Wrote: Just to add to this (specifically for UK residents) DO NOT raise a chargeback unless it's watertight.
I had my fingers burnt in the past, and the merchant provided evidence that I was being fraudulent with the chargeback attempt, and I ended up with a CIFAS marker for misuses of facility.
Thankfully, it only lasted for 12 months, and I was in a safe job, and it dropped off so took the L and didn't try and contest it.
But, it taught me valuable lesson in being careless with chargebacks with your bank/Credit Card.
Now, I just take the L and return the item if all DNA/EB/MEB options have been exhausted.
This is why DNA is power
(01-07-2025, 08:07 PM)Broskie333 Wrote: (01-05-2025, 09:46 PM)Jojo1980 Wrote: Just to add to this (specifically for UK residents) DO NOT raise a chargeback unless it's watertight.
I had my fingers burnt in the past, and the merchant provided evidence that I was being fraudulent with the chargeback attempt, and I ended up with a CIFAS marker for misuses of facility.
Thankfully, it only lasted for 12 months, and I was in a safe job, and it dropped off so took the L and didn't try and contest it.
But, it taught me valuable lesson in being careless with chargebacks with your bank/Credit Card.
Now, I just take the L and return the item if all DNA/EB/MEB options have been exhausted.
That doesn't just happen with 1 chargeback, if you keep doing it over and over that's when it gets sus and they will refer your account to a specialised team
I had a similar issue but thankfully they are not a "real" uk bank(you probably know by this already which bank it is) so they don't load cifas markers lol
I might be wrong, but he said the merchant provided proof for fraudulent activities, not neccessarily the bank themselves, and the bank decided to agree with the merchant.
I did some extra reading about the best way to CB an order and found that reporting the charge as fraudulent works the best. However, my only concern would be the merchant following up and maybe even contacting the police about it.
For example, let's say the delivery address goes to a drophouse. What if the merchant provides delivery details for where the fraud occurred, especially for insurance purposes? Think about it, if that's where the item was sent. that's where the supposed fraudster is too, or at least has access to. Particularly for the value of this item, it's something I could actually imagine the police (lightly) following up with.
The only alternative I can think of is sending the item to a post office (risk of ID check) or to one of those postal boxes you find near cornershops and petrol stations and then reporting as fraudulent charge. The most they'd be able to find is the CCTV footage of you approaching and taking the item from the collection box.
My apologies if I sound overly cautious; I believe it's better to be safe than sorry.
Thank you for reading my fictional story!
As far as I know if you are claiming the transaction as unathorised, the bank will ask for the details of the purchase like name, email,address etc etc... and if they cannot prove that it was you they will have to take it as fraud and refund you so you hit the bank, not the merchant. That is why there's 3DS checks and things like that in place to prevent these. I might be totally wrong so please if someone knows more feel free to join in
RE: RTX 5090 SE? - Woo - 01-08-2025
(01-07-2025, 10:22 PM)Broskie333 Wrote: (01-07-2025, 09:18 PM)Woo Wrote: (01-06-2025, 06:53 AM)HeadxHunter Wrote: This is why DNA is power
(01-07-2025, 08:07 PM)Broskie333 Wrote: That doesn't just happen with 1 chargeback, if you keep doing it over and over that's when it gets sus and they will refer your account to a specialised team
I had a similar issue but thankfully they are not a "real" uk bank(you probably know by this already which bank it is) so they don't load cifas markers lol
I might be wrong, but he said the merchant provided proof for fraudulent activities, not neccessarily the bank themselves, and the bank decided to agree with the merchant.
I did some extra reading about the best way to CB an order and found that reporting the charge as fraudulent works the best. However, my only concern would be the merchant following up and maybe even contacting the police about it.
For example, let's say the delivery address goes to a drophouse. What if the merchant provides delivery details for where the fraud occurred, especially for insurance purposes? Think about it, if that's where the item was sent. that's where the supposed fraudster is too, or at least has access to. Particularly for the value of this item, it's something I could actually imagine the police (lightly) following up with.
The only alternative I can think of is sending the item to a post office (risk of ID check) or to one of those postal boxes you find near cornershops and petrol stations and then reporting as fraudulent charge. The most they'd be able to find is the CCTV footage of you approaching and taking the item from the collection box.
My apologies if I sound overly cautious; I believe it's better to be safe than sorry.
Thank you for reading my fictional story!
As far as I know if you are claiming the transaction as unathorised, the bank will ask for the details of the purchase like name, email,address etc etc... and if they cannot prove that it was you they will have to take it as fraud and refund you so you hit the bank, not the merchant. That is why there's 3DS checks and things like that in place to prevent these. I might be totally wrong so please if someone knows more feel free to join in
Yes, some advice on this would be appreciated! I'm not so familiar with the method
RE: RTX 5090 SE? - Jojo1980 - 01-08-2025
Guys..
Let me clarify my post.
I had no previous chargebacks with the credit card. Long term history as a very good customer with them, so in terms of account conduct you couldn't ask for anything better.
The issue arose when I attempted EB, which rhe merchant refused. I then stupidly, despite previous posts of mines stating not to bother unless it's a valuable chargeback, I initiated a chargeback for the item which was worth around £500.
The CC first refunded me the money, as it's usually the case with UK chargeback procedures...However, the merchant provided information (not sure what exactly) alleging fraud.
In the UK, banks/CCs don't even have to prove that you were fraudulent before registering a CIFAS marker against you..An intent is all they need.
Additionally, CIFAS are funded by banks. So, it's in the interest of the banks to protect themselves and therefore the threshold for getting a CIFAS marker isn't high - despite what they might have you believe.
The reason I did not contest it is because the marker was only valid for 12 months, after which it dropped off.
It opened my eyes to the chargeback process and how rarely you should be using it, and you should only go down the route of chargeback when your case is water tight and the evidence of DNA/EB is irrefutable.
However, the headache and stress alone isn't worth it.
That's why now I stick to simple DNA, and EBs.
If either fail, it's a straight return...simple as that!
RE: RTX 5090 SE? - Broskie333 - 01-08-2025
(01-08-2025, 06:32 PM)Jojo1980 Wrote: Guys..
Let me clarify my post.
I had no previous chargebacks with the credit card. Long term history as a very good customer with them, so in terms of account conduct you couldn't ask for anything better.
The issue arose when I attempted EB, which rhe merchant refused. I then stupidly, despite previous posts of mines stating not to bother unless it's a valuable chargeback, I initiated a chargeback for the item which was worth around £500.
The CC first refunded me the money, as it's usually the case with UK chargeback procedures...However, the merchant provided information (not sure what exactly) alleging fraud.
In the UK, banks/CCs don't even have to prove that you were fraudulent before registering a CIFAS marker against you..An intent is all they need.
Additionally, CIFAS are funded by banks. So, it's in the interest of the banks to protect themselves and therefore the threshold for getting a CIFAS marker isn't high - despite what they might have you believe.
The reason I did not contest it is because the marker was only valid for 12 months, after which it dropped off.
It opened my eyes to the chargeback process and how rarely you should be using it, and you should only go down the route of chargeback when your case is water tight and the evidence of DNA/EB is irrefutable.
However, the headache and stress alone isn't worth it.
That's why now I stick to simple DNA, and EBs.
If either fail, it's a straight return...simple as that!
Yea I always avoid chargebacks, that is like the very last resort when I returned the item legitimately but the seller is a pice of 💩
Also you can ask for the documents sent by the merchant, they can send it over to you.
You're lucky you didn't get a cat6 as that lasts for 6 years and that will screw you and your credit score big times
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