[Th3Proph3t]

WARNING

I am NOT responsible for any consequences that are made against you as a result of following this guide.

INTRODUCTION

Hello Hack Community, Th3Proph3t here with an elaborate guide on sabotaging people, businesses, and the like. This is an INDIRECT form of social engineering. While it may not require direct contact with another person, the techniques or methods in this guide can still be used to screw another person's life up or achieve results you may be looking for. Let's begin with the first aspect in becoming a saboteur...

[LL] = LIFE LINES

No building is an island. Anywhere big business sets up shop there are pipes, wires. Instructions roads, sidewalks, and electromagnetic signals connecting it to the things it needs. These Lifelines are the lifelines of the target, the legs it stands on. Lifelines include electricity, telephone, fuel, ventilation, perimeter security, water /plumbing, and data lines such as DSL, cable, and satellite. If any of these lifelines is disrupted, the business will not run properly, and it may lose money. If several of them are disrupted, a dear message will be sent and damage to business -as -usual will be more than merely annoying. Though the examples below are based on common lifelines, each target will have its own particulars. Do your own research, locate essential components. Think through their daily operations, walk around the perimeter, get inside, join the staff.
NOTE

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A note on timing: when planning multiple strikes on one target, think hard about the best order in which to execute actions. For instance, security cameras should be disabled first, and phone lines last, since disabling the phone lines may trigger an alarm system if one has not been triggered already. Save any action that may generate noise for last, while carrying out your most effective plans as early as possible, in case you're interrupted.

[LL] - GAS

EQUIPMENT - Adjustable wrench or pliers.

The meat and fried food served at fast food establishments are cooked by means of natural gas — lots of it! The gas meter and shut-off valve are located outside the restaurant to facilitate easy shut-off in an emergency situation. Emergency situations can range from a grease fire in the kitchen to the exploitation of workers who are economically coerced into serving poisonous, factory-farmed, commodity flesh and genetically-engineered vegetable matter to their fellow civilians for the profit of a corporation that doesn't give a fuck about anyone. Sorry if I oversimplify. Did you want fries and a shake with that?

Gas goes into the restaurant through an easy-to-recognize meter located around back. The meter is a bulbous object about the size of a small wastebasket, mounted at about knee height. It is generally painted blue or gray and has a little window for gauges. It will bear the name of the local gas provider. Conveniently these are often obscured by shrubbery or otherwise out of public view, as they are thought to be unsightly; this will make your job all the easier.

ILLUSTRATION



There are at least two pipes connected to the meter. One pipe comes from the ground and goes into the meter. Another goes from the meter into the building. On either or both of these pipes there will be a valve. The valve will be in the middle of a straight length of pipe. It wall look like a fitting that joins two pipes. In the middle of the fitting there will be a rectangular tab, basically the only protruding object readily accessible for turning. If the gas is on, the tab will be oriented parallel to the pipe. To turn the gas off, use your wrench to reposition the tab 90 degrees counterclockwise so that the tab is perpendicular to the pipe. A parallel tab means gas is flowing, a tab perpendicular to the pipe means the gas is off. If there is more than one valve connected to the meter, one of them may already be turned off. Never turn on a valve that is already off.

For best results, do this during business hours; it really is easy to get away with. The fry vats and flat-top grills start cooling off immediately, but it will take up to fifteen minutes for employees to notice. Unless this is the establishment's fourth or fifth "emergency shut-off," they won't know what the hell is happening until you are long gone. The repair truck will be called in. An hour later, long after the lunch rush, the gas technician will charge them a hundred bucks for turning a valve back on and relighting the pilots. By making his services indispensable, you're "creating jobs," as the politicians say — now that's trickle-down economics! To super-size that shut-off, bring a padlock of your own. When you turn the valve off, two metal holes, one on the pipe and one on the tab, will line up. Pass a padlock through the holes and snap it shut. This is how the gas company prevents you from turning it back on if you miss a few bills.

[LL] - ELECTRICITY

Since electrical lines have the potential to kill, saboteurs must be well trained and equipped. There are simply too many different kinds of commercial power to cover here, and such skills must be taught in person for safety's sake; when it comes to major power outages, you're on your own. It is less dangerous to shut off domestic-scale electricity; this can be fairly easy, and may be useful for disabling houses hosting fascist events and other scourges that must be stopped. This same technique can work for illumination or displays on some billboards. First, wear shoes with thick insulating soles and use rubber gloves. You will not actually be touching any live conductors, but it is a smart precaution. Don't pull a meter if it is raining or if the ground or surrounding vegetation is wet. Because then you're a dumbass, and this guide isn't for dumbasses.

ILLUSTRATION


The meter is mounted somewhere near the lines that run from the power poles to the point of use. It is a painted metal box with a clear glass dome sticking out. The glass part is about the shape of a dog food bowl. Inside the glass you can see a disk spinning and several small dials. If it is a newer meter, you will see a digital readout. The glass cover is a sealed part of the meter itself. The whole assembly plugs into the box. Like a big fuse, this assembly conducts power from the power line through the meter and into the building's electrical panel. Before unplugging the meter, you must open the box that secures it to its base. Usually the box will have a hasp at the bottom that could hold a lock. Instead of a lock, however, the hasp holds a small tamper indicator. The tamper indicator looks like a skinny padlock with a loop of ware that runs through the hasp. You are tampering, so indicate this by clipping this wire with pliers. Now you can open the box. Use both hands to tug the meter out of its socket. When tugging, you should only touch the glass cover. Never reach around behind the glass — that's where all the power is. If it's stubborn, wiggle it up and down while pulling. If it still won't come out, give up so you will live to fight another day.

The moment the meter comes free, the power will be off. In the empty socket behind it, there will be thick copper tabs. These contain 220 volts of live power direct from the nearest transformer. Death is likely for anyone who becomes a conductor for that amount of electricity — "be careful" is an understatement. Depending on the location of the meter, you may want to be prepared with a roll of duct tape to cover the hole and prevent someone from sticking his fingers inside. Whatever you must do to make the job professional, remember that the power will go out the moment the meter is free. You need to be ready to get out of there as quickly as possible. Put the meter in your backpack and carry it away so it cannot simply be plugged back in.
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You can disable the plug of any electrical device by painting it with clear nail polish so it cannot conduct electricity; try this with corporate soda machines or items for sale in chain superstores.

[LL] - AIR
Don't forget, air is an important lifeline, perhaps the most important. A good stink bomb or two can empty a building without causing any damage; it can be especially effective to introduce them into the ventilation system. And what else travels through the air, besides scent? Sound! Hide one of those battery-powered personal alarms on the premises, or just toss it into the bushes as you drive by. This is especially effective if you're targeting the home of a business executive or investor at, say, four in the morning. Search up "Liquid Ass" if you want some stink bombs/spray that will make people vomit. I still have a couple bottles left and I must say it literally smells like just straight up in your face ass.

[LL] - SECURITY
Another lifeline of a standard corporate business location is its simple security. Don't look at tills security as a hindrance to sabotage, but as another opportunity for it. The security designed to keep you out can also be used to keep the doors shut. You can glue their locks, and strategically place your own. If a lock is properly glued, a locksmith will have to be called — ^there you are again, creating jobs — and the lock will have to be drilled. This takes a lot of time and money. If you are striking multiple lifelines of the same target, start with gluing the locks and then move on.

In order to glue a lock, you need an appropriate glue and a method of getting it into the lock. Appropriate glues will indicate that they can be used to fasten metal to metal, Superglue and other brands of cyanoacrylate work well and come with tips for easy application. If your glue has a blunt applicator, you can construct a syringe by fastening one of those hollow coffee-stirring sticks to the tip. You can also fill a syringe, minus needle, with epoxy glue — get the slow-setting, high-strength kind and you'll have an hour of working time once you've mixed it. Whatever glue you use, get as much in as you can, as deep as possible; you can also add wire, toothpicks, paperclips, or random shards of metal, glass, or plastic. Use a small screwdriver to wedge stuff in. Even if you have no glue, enough dirt and grit can disable a lock if introduced deep enough into it. You can also use a metal-to-metal glue to fasten a coin — obtained from a vending machine and never handled without gloves, of course — over the keyhole of the lock, which will keep the glue in the lock and make things that much more difficult for the locksmith. This method also works for car doors, keyholes on vending machines, and coin slots. Don't forget to wear gloves.

If you can close fences in loading areas, access to necessary supplies and services will be restricted. If there is an area with double doors, you may be able to run a bicycle U-lock through both handles, thus locking the doors together. If your target has metal shutters that are pulled down at night, keep the shutters closed all day by gluing the locks or by adding your own.

You can also find and destroy security cameras — in fact, you might want to do this before doing anything else. This will cost the business money, as we cripple their surveillance. In addition to security cameras, you may be able to locate and smash the drive-through camera, thus disabling their drive-through facilities. To disable cameras, you can paint over their lenses or sticker over or simply smash them; you could also cut their wires, wearing thick rubber gloves and insulated electrician's tools to protect yourself from electric shock, or drop concrete blocks on them from above. If you are fortunate enough to have access inside your target, there are numerous life-lines available. Walk around inside under the pretext of asking for directions to get a job there. Observe people utilizing the services, and determine which components are necessary for the operation. If it is an office, you need not smash all the computers; you could be subtler and make small cuts in keyboard and mouse wires. Misplace the small, curly wire that connects the telephone handset to the receiver. Hide staples, pens and batteries, business forms. Throw away correspondence, especially bills and customer inquiries. Slip backup data and important-looking files into the trash. Place a rare earth magnet (big ones are available in old computer hard drives with 5" disks) next to the magnetically stored data. You get the idea.

[LL] - WATER
Another pressure point of any target is its restroom facilities. No one wants to do business in or work at a facility that has no toilets. Here are two methods for toilet clogging. The first is temporary and can be undone by a plumber with no harm to the toilet or pipes. The second is permanent and will necessitate costly replacement of the toilet.

TEMPORARY SOLUTION

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1. Acquire a large sponge and some string. Get a large sponge, one designed to wash cars, not dishes. 2. Wet the sponge. 3. After the sponge is wet, wrap it tightly in string, so it will remain compressed. It must be small enough to fit down a toilet. 4. Let the string-wrapped sponge dry completely. 5. Remove the string, allowing the sponge to retain its compact shape. 6. Introduce the small, stringless sponge into the pipes by flushing it down the toilet. You may also want to give it a little pushing with the handle of a plunger or some other simple tool. 7. Once the sponge absorbs the water, it will expand to its original size and block the pipes.

PART 2